Navy Tiara Tradition Makes a Comeback

A unique military tradition is experiencing renewed interest as Navy celebrations spark a resurgence in the use of vintage tiaras. Once a standard accessory for high-ranking servicewomen at formal events across three US military branches, these headpieces are now rare collector's items. The Navy currently permits their use, though spotting one remains uncommon.

At least two vintage tiaras are housed in the Smithsonian Institution, rediscovered by museum staff over a decade ago during a digital cataloging effort. These artifacts belonged to colonels in the Army Nurse Corps and Marine Corps, representing a time when women rose to senior ranks in small cohorts. The tiaras, styled as bandeaus rather than ornate jeweled pieces, featured botanical motifs symbolizing victory and strength.

While the Marine Corps and Army banned the items in the 1970s and 1980s respectively, the Navy reversed a 2015 ban recently. With the Navy's 250th birthday in 2025, veteran Jennifer Bennie noted increased demand for the elusive uniform items, which are made-to-order and can cost up to $900 for admirals.

Military tiaras emerged in the 1950s, shortly after women were legally permitted to serve on active duty across the armed forces. These ornamental headpieces were worn exclusively at formal occasions, such as galas or state events. Until the 1970s, military women served under their own female chains of command.

The designs differed significantly from traditional jeweled tiaras. American military tiaras were styled more closely as headbands, a style known technically as a bandeau. Despite this practical design, they carried significant symbolic weight.

Key design elements included:

• Botanical motifs representing victory and strength
• Laurel wreaths for the Army
• Oak leaves for the Marine Corps

The Marine Corps tiara was particularly distinctive, made of scarlet wool with leaves embroidered in goldwork. This goldwork was considered a costly detail at the time. Small combs on either side helped pin it in place, worn at a slight angle. An exclusive American couturier, Mainbocher, who designed female Marine uniforms in the 1950s, created the tiara specially for the colonel who oversaw the post-war organization of female Marines.

The Army's tiara, found in the Smithsonian collection, appears to be similarly embroidered goldwork on navy-colored wool, stitched onto a thin headband. Less is known about its specific origins compared to the Marine Corps version.

The Smithsonian's National Museum of American History houses at least two of these rare artifacts. Museum staff rediscovered them over a decade ago during an extensive digital cataloging effort.

Natalie Elder, a military and society collections manager for the museum, described the moment of discovery. "It's always a good day when you come upon something that's not a little bit out of the ordinary," Elder said. She added, "I can't remember if I knew that the military had tiaras at that point, but everybody got really excited about it."

The two tiaras in the collection each belonged to colonels:

• Mildred Clark of the Army Nurse Corps
• Mary Bane of the Marine Corps

These women were part of a small cohort rising to senior ranks at the time. Elder noted that while tiaras weren't common in American 1950s fashion, these headpieces signified the increasing importance of women's permanent presence in the military. They simultaneously emphasized femininity, which was considered an important distinction at the time.

The use of military tiaras followed a specific timeline of acceptance and prohibition across the branches. The Marine Corps banned tiaras in the 1970s, followed by the Army approximately a decade later.

The Navy held out until this century. The sea service outlawed the headpiece in 2015, but surprisingly reversed course a couple of years ago. Currently, female sailors of any rank can wear the tiara, though it is not a required accessory.

Despite the Navy's current allowance, spotting a tiara in the wild remains rare. The scarcity is partly due to the limited number of high-ranking servicewomen in the years between the 1950s and 1970s, which meant few tiaras were originally manufactured.

The hunt for Navy tiaras intensified in the past year. With 2025 marking the Navy's 250th birthday, galas were bigger than ever, and more female sailors scrambled to track down the unusual accessory.

Navy veteran and former MH-60R Seahawk pilot Jennifer Bennie shared her experience with the elusive item. Bennie purchased her vintage Navy tiara in a Virginia military surplus store a few years ago. "They've always been more of an elusive uniform item," Bennie said.

The Navy's tiara is larger than those of other services. It carries the same eagle-over-shield with crossed anchors device found on Navy officer headgear, flanked by embroidered oak leaves that signify rank on black velvet.

Those looking to purchase a new military tiara face significant wait times. Bennie noted that buyers could wait weeks or months for delivery. Prices are not listed on the Navy's uniform website, but a representative for the manufacturer, Vanguard, indicated prices range from $125 for tiaras for the lowest ranks to $900 for admirals. Each is made-to-order and embroidered by hand.

Bennie loaned her tiara out twice and wore it herself at a Navy ball with her active-duty husband and at civilian events. She observed that not many uniform items spark genuine delight, but the tiara is a rare exception. "There's very few things uniform-wise that females probably love to wear," Bennie said. "And this is top of the list."