Millennial's Nasi Lemak Stall Faces Location Hurdles in Singapore

Jonas Koh has long harbored the ambition to become his own boss in the food industry. After earning a business degree to appease his parents, he pursued his passion by working in various roles from age 17, including as a waiter, in kitchens, and at bars.

In September 2024, Koh opened The Kumpong Boys in Singapore's northern Ang Mo Kio neighborhood. The stall focuses on nasi lemak, a beloved dish with fragrant rice cooked in coconut milk, accompanied by sambal, fried chicken, a boiled egg, crispy anchovies, and fresh cucumbers.

To get started, Koh collaborated with a mentor he met while working at OverEasy, an American diner in Singapore. Together, they refined the nasi lemak recipe, ensuring it featured standout elements like massive portions of fried chicken.

Koh funded the initial setup with approximately SG$7,000 from his personal savings, equivalent to about $5,400. This covered essential cooking equipment and stall preparations in the hawker center.

One bite of the fried chicken leg at The Kumpong Boys reveals Koh's commitment to quality. It stands as the largest seen in years of sampling Singapore's hawker cuisine, boasting a crispy exterior, juicy and tender interior, and a balanced spice coating.

Complementing the chicken is Koh's signature onion and chili sambal paste, which adds a perfect blend of spice and sweetness. This chili has become a draw in itself, with repeat customers purchasing it separately.

"Our chili is what separates us from the rest," Jonas Koh shared during a visit in November. He emphasized how this element elevates the dish and builds loyalty among patrons.

The menu highlights sets like the berempah set and curry ayam set, both priced at SG$6.90. Koh maintains these as the lowest possible prices given the escalating costs of ingredients, ensuring value without compromising on portion sizes or taste.

Preparation and Routine

Jonas Koh begins his day at 9 a.m., arriving at the stall to prepare essentials like rice, eggs, and chicken curry alongside his single staff member. The stall opens at 10 a.m. and remains busy until closing at 8 p.m., serving both lunch and dinner crowds.

This schedule repeats seven days a week, embracing the heat of the hawker center and extended hours. Koh finds fulfillment in the independence, contrasting it with traditional office life.

"I've never worked in a corporate job — the 9-5 grind, getting reprimanded by your boss," Koh explained. "My friends ask me if being a hawker is tiring, but I think passion for the work is what keeps me going."

Challenges in the Kitchen

The small kitchen behind the counter handles all cooking needs efficiently. Despite the demanding routine, Koh's dedication shines through in consistent output and customer interactions.

While the food excels, The Kumpong Boys faces significant challenges in Ang Mo Kio. Koh selected the location primarily for its affordable rent of SG$3,700 per month, which includes gas, electricity, and water, in a quiet residential area.

Post-opening, he discovered the neighborhood's demographic—predominantly older residents—prefers budget meals under SG$4. This cost-consciousness clashes with Koh's pricing, surrounded by competing stalls offering cheaper alternatives, leaving him feeling priced out.

Sales fluctuate, reaching 80 to 100 plates on good days but dropping to 30 to 40 on slower ones. Cultural factors exacerbate this: "A lot of older Buddhist people eat vegetarian food on the first and the 15th day of the month," Koh noted, leading to sharp declines. A nearby Buddhist temple's 10-day free vegetarian food event once severely impacted business.

"I really regret choosing this location, because customers are really not open-minded about price," Koh admitted. The older crowd's reluctance to spend on food makes him feel his target—younger, more affluent diners—is absent.

Looking ahead, Koh plans relocation to areas with vibrant, spending-prone crowds, such as near universities or the central business district. "There's a lot more potential, and a lot more things we can do, but we must step out from here and go elsewhere," he said. This move aims to unlock growth and evade the fate of closing eateries he reads about, a fear that lingers.

In conclusion, Jonas Koh's journey embodies the highs and lows of hawker entrepreneurship in Singapore. His passion and quality offerings provide a strong foundation, but adapting to the right market could turn struggles into success, inspiring other aspiring food business owners.