Saks Owes Designer Six Figures Amid Bankruptcy

What began as a dream partnership has become a financial nightmare for fashion designer Fisayo Che. Her brand, Elisamama, built its success on the shelves of Saks Fifth Avenue, which became the company's largest customer. Now, following a major bankruptcy filing, Saks owes Elisamama a six-figure sum that threatens the brand's viability.

The situation highlights the fragile nature of designer-retailer relationships in the luxury fashion world. For Che, who left her corporate job in 2024 to focus on Elisamama full-time, the debt represents more than just lost revenue—it forces difficult decisions about her team in Nigeria and the future of a brand she built from flea markets to Fifth Avenue.

Elisamama began as a side project while Che worked a corporate job. Inspired by her family's roots in Nigeria, she created a women's and children's wear brand celebrating African artistry and prints. The early days involved selling at flea markets and on Etsy, but everything changed in fall 2020.

A discovery on Instagram led to an introduction with a Saks buyer. Che initially dismissed the outreach as a scam. "I thought it was a scam, and I didn't respond," she recalled. The contact persisted, and a vice president from the company eventually sent a direct message. "I freaked out and was very scared. I thought: How are we going to do this?"

Saks provided crucial guidance during the onboarding process, helping Elisamama navigate complex vendor requirements. The partnership allowed the brand to hire more artisans in Nigeria and scale production. By 2023, Saks selected Elisamama for its New Wave program for emerging designers. The program included a grant, industry connections in New York, and a coveted window display at the Saks flagship store.

That was a remarkable moment for me and my team in Nigeria, who are so proud of this work. It was nothing that I could even have imagined for Elisamama.

For years, the relationship flourished. Saks placed orders every season, eventually accounting for 50% to 60% of Elisamama's total business. Che described Saks as a "great partner" that consistently paid on agreed terms. However, the stability began to fracture in February of last year when Saks sent vendors a memo announcing a switch to installment payments.

Che initially remained optimistic, viewing the delay as a temporary measure for an important partner. "I thought: We can wait a few months to get paid. They're important partners." The company issued a small check in July and a more substantial payment in August, leading Che to believe the situation was resolving. She continued fulfilling orders, operating on faith.

That faith proved costly. No further payments arrived after August, despite Elisamama fulfilling two additional orders. The situation culminated in January 2026 when Saks Global filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. The filing allows the retailer to continue operations while reorganizing debt under court supervision. For Che, the announcement was the final blow.

• Consistent payment history prior to February 2025
• Switch to installment payments announced in memo
• Partial payments made in July and August
• Total outstanding debt now reaches six figures

The financial impact extends far beyond the brand's bottom line. Elisamama employs 20 people full-time in Nigeria, supported by additional consultants and contractors. The six-figure debt owed by Saks represents payroll, materials, and the livelihoods of the artisans who produce Elisamama's collections.

Che is now facing the painful prospect of reducing her workforce to keep the business afloat. "I'm considering cutting half of our team to stay viable," she stated. The decision weighs heavily on her, as the brand was founded specifically to support women artisans in Nigeria.

The bankruptcy proceedings have also changed how Elisamama operates with Saks. According to the retailer's statements, funding secured through bankruptcy will prioritize debts incurred after January 13. Older invoices, including the majority of what Saks owes Elisamama, are subject to the court reorganization process. Che has halted shipments on Saks' most recent order and is demanding prepayment for any future inventory.

I want to see Saks win, but I don't believe the company anymore.

Saks Global issued a statement regarding the bankruptcy, affirming its commitment to "trusted relationships with brand partners." The company noted that secured funding will "facilitate go-forward payments to brand partners." However, for Che, the damage to the relationship is profound.

The designer is actively diversifying her sales channels to protect Elisamama from future reliance on a single retailer. Since the New Wave program exposure, the brand has secured partnerships with retailers like Shopbop and Tuckernuck, as well as specialty boutiques. These relationships now form a critical safety net.

Despite the disappointment, Che acknowledges the value of the Saks partnership in the competitive fashion landscape. The retailer remains a powerful platform for emerging designers. However, restoring that trust will require concrete action. "Saks needs to restore trust with its suppliers by putting money behind its orders," Che noted. "If it did that, brands would continue to send goods because it's that important."

• Elisamama now requires prepayment before shipping future orders
• Brand is considering asking for return of current inventory
• Expansion into Shopbop and Tuckernuck provides alternative revenue
• Focus shifts to protecting the business from single-retailer risk

The story of Elisamama and Saks serves as a stark reminder of the vulnerabilities small brands face when dependent on large corporate partners. While Saks undergoes court-supervised reorganization, designers like Fisayo Che must navigate the immediate financial fallout and make difficult operational decisions.

For Elisamama, the path forward involves balancing the hope of eventual payment with the reality of current cash flow constraints. The brand's future depends on its ability to leverage the visibility gained from its Saks partnership while insulating itself from further corporate instability. As the bankruptcy proceedings continue, the fashion industry watches closely to see how the retailer will honor its commitments to the very designers that fuel its luxury image.